Click Here for Pictures
The conversion process will take any where from 80-100 hours to complete depending on your application and skill level. The majority of the work is mechanical and will require little fabrication on your side, our kits are designed to be as simple as possible to install.
Engine Mounts: We highly recommend welding these to the frame, they mount in the same basic spot as your original Jeep mounts. First assemble your driveline (engine, transmission, and transfer case) Mount transfer case to original crossmember and bolt to frame, align engine with frame and level it. Keep the top mount at the end of threads on joystick, this will help absorb some of the vibration. 'C’ Clamp mounts in to check the hood closes, exhaust fits, etc, then mark and weld in the mounts. These are adjustable so exact location is not critical. Lock tight all nuts and bolts!
Adapters and Bell Housings: Below are the main 4 adapters used in these conversion. All of these come with instructions or you can download them here.
Clutch : The clutch assembly will depend on several variances. You will use the flywheel from the 4BT, the flyweel you have will decide the rest of the parts you will need. The flywheel will be either a Ford or GM style and it may be thin (standard) or thick (heavy duty). The clutch and pressure plate will be either a GM or Ford, choose a heavy duty clutch that fits your application! The throwout bearing and sleeve will depend on the thickness of the flywheel and the pilot bearing depends on the diameter of the transmission input shaft and size of the flywheel's center hole. All of these can vary and it is difficult to know what you need until you have all the parts in front of you. If your Jeep has an original internal slave cylinder, you will need to convert it to an external. Otherwise the slave cylinder, master cylinder, throwout lever, clutch rod and pedal assembly will reman what came on the Jeep. When you are ready to install the clutch assembly, grab a tape measure and give us a call we will be happy to assist in getting you the proper parts.
Vacuum Pump : Attach vacuum pump to block then attach power steering pump to vacuum pump. Attach supplied hose to oil outlet on block.
Crankshaft Exciter: Locate the existing sensor in the bell housing, cut and extend the sensor wires to reach the front of the 4BT. Slide the ring over the 4BT crank pulley and weld in place. Mount the bracket (see pic) to the block and attach the sensor.
Camshaft Sensor: Locate the existing sensor, cut and extend the wires to reach the front of the 4BT. Bolt the bracket to the block and the ring disc to the pulley (see pic), plug in the sensor
A/C Compressor: This mounts to the right side of the engine using existing holes in the block. Be sure the pulley and idler pulley line up with the others on the engine.
Fuel Tank Conversion - Option 1: Do NOT remove the fuel sending unit. Drain and remove fuel tank, remove fuel pump module. Remove fuel pump, wiring for pump, filter from module. Remove the regulator from the top and grind plastic module housing flat on the inside where reg. went through. Assemble bulkhead fitting with rubber coated washers on both sides, install with threaded side towards tank, apply loctite to nut and tighten. Install pipe nipple on top with 90 degree elbow along with barbed nipple. Install barbed nipple on inside of module and attach supplied rubber hose. Drill hole for return line fitting into top of housing and assemble bulkhead fitting with nipple and 90 degree elbow. See pic.
Fuel Tank Conversion - Option 2: Connect the stock 5/16" fuel supply line to the 4BT mechanical fuel pump, teeing in a brass 'T' fitting 6" before the pump. From that 'T' connect a small piece of hose to a second 'T', attach the return line from the injectors to the 2nd 'T' and run the metal return line back to the tank. Insert the check valve along the way and finally add the last 'T' fitting (3/4" for 1997-02 or 5/16" for 2003-12) and connect to the fuel tank fill vent. See diagram
Wiring: Most of the electrical work is removing wires and adding length to a couple. Every truck will be different. Be careful not to cut out wires you will need later on. We recomend leaving all wires in tach until thr project is finished!
Exhaust: Installed as any other type of exhaust, be sure to mount securely and use rubber hangers to absorb the vibration
Lift Kits: Please follow instruction included with your choice of kits
Gearing: We recommend having gearing swaps done by a professional